January Yatai Stuffs.

I previously mentioned that January in Japan is full of festivals, and usually festivals go hand-in-hand with Yatai. These are some of the highlights, roasted nuts of some sort - tasty but get stale very quickly - best enjoyed hot as you walk around the festival. Next are Daruma dolls (達磨), which are hollow and roundish dolls modeled after Bodhidharma; the founder of the Zen sect of Buddhism. The eyes of Daruma are often blank when sold, one eye is filled in upon setting a goal and then the other upon fulfilling it. In this way, the Daruma is a good luck charm as well as a reminder of a particular goal. Next, this tasty mollusk was simmered with dashi (soup stalk) in its shell on an open grill - enjoyed with warm Saki - yum! Finally is Kuri Manju which is a wonderful baked bun stuffed with chestnut paste.

Mister Donut x Rilakkuma

Rilakkuma, a combination of the Japanese pronunciation of relax and the Japanese word for bear, is a popular icon in Japan and is now invading the Mister Donut. These cute fellows come in 3 flavors (strawberry, chocolate, and caramel) and its brains, if you will, are cream. . . whipped feather light, and flavored ever so gently to complement the shell. The outer chewy layer is complimented by a light and airy center making for a wonderful texture overall. This subtle, well for a donut anyway, and unbearably good treat is a feat of Japanese gastronomic engineering.

Mochitsuki

Mochi (餅) is a cake made of glutinous rice pounded into a paste-like consistency and molded into a small flat bottomed sphere. In Japan it is traditionally made in a ceremony called a mochitsuki. While eaten year-round, mochi is also a traditional food for shogatsu; often added to a simple but delicious vegetable soup called (o)Zōni. I had the chance to visit a traditional Japanese home in the Kobe mountains, where we had a mochitsuki with rice that was prepared on a kamado - pictured. A kamado is a traditional Japanese wood or charcoal fired earthen vessel used as a stove or oven.

あけましておめでとうございます。

Happy New Year! Japanese New Year's food is called osechi-ryori, which is traditionally served in jubako, lacquer boxes, such as this. Each dish and ingredient in osechi has a meaning, such as good health, harvest, happiness, and or long life. It's a Japanese tradition to eat osechi-ryori throughout the New Year's holidays which last until January 3rd. Traditionally, people finish cooking osechi dishes by New Year's Eve so that they have food for a couple days, and to provide a break for the long suffering and overworked house wife (or husband, but that would be very modern). Nowadays, people can also buy ready-made osechi dishes, or order them at department stores, grocery stores, or convenience stores. Hope your new years celebration was a good one, and the coming year provides joy, education, and growth.

Nagata Night Market

Throughout the summer the local shōtengai (Japanese commercial district running along a certain street) hosts an international food bazar and night market on the 3rd friday of the month. Many small restaurants offer foods and drink from throughout Asia, and with live music and karaoke the atmosphere is light and festive. For this go-around dinner featured a chicken marsala kebob, Myanmar curry, mango juice, and home made makkori (Korean rice-based wine). I truly enjoy Japanese cuisine, however it is also nice to have some different tastes and smells from time to time.

Tsukimi 月見

Today is the Tsukimi matsuri (literally moon viewing festival), a Japanese tradition originated from China, which is an annual festival honoring the autumn moon. Traditionally, tsukimi dango (Japanese dumplings) and Japanese sake are placed on a tray and susuki (pampas grass) are arranged in a vase in order to celebrate the beauty of the moon. People view the mid-autumn moon quietly at home, gardens, shrines, and temples. Also, it's widely believed that the shadows on the moon surface look like a rabbit pounding mochi rice cake on a usu mortar, which is why some Tsukimi dango (like these) are shaped like rabbits. More recently some fast food restaurants in Japan, such as McDonalds, offer a special fall menu featuring fried egg (yolk looks like a full moon) sandwiches known as Tsukimi burgers.

Umeboshi 梅干

After a few hot hours inside Kenroku-en a retreat to the shaded side-steets just outside the garden gates offers up some tasty food shops, were I spied these drying umeboshi, alongside some vendors selling souvenir and local wears. Umeboshi, literally dried ume, are pickled ume fruits common in Japan. Ume (Prunus Mume) is a species of fruit-bearing tree in the genus Prunus, which is often called a plum but is actually more closely related to the apricot. Umeboshi are a popular kind of tsukemono (pickles) and are extremely sour and salty, Yum!

Sasa-Dango

Sasa-dango, bamboo leaf-wrapped rice cakes, is a traditional Niigata sweet for the boy's festival on May 5, but because of its popularity and identity as a specialty of this area, is available most of the year. The history of this confection stems from a story of a general of Echigo, named Uesugi Yoshinobu, who was said to carry the sweet as a supplemental food on long journeys. Sasa-dango is made from glutinous rice that is steamed and pounded into mochi (rice cake) then spiced with mugwort. The mochi is wrapped around bean jam, and both are wrapped and tied with sasa bamboo leaves. The delicious little package is then steamed, which leaves a hint of the taste of the bamboo inside the mochi. Absolutely delicious and they have one of the most environmentally friendly and pleasing packages that I have ever seen - like little gifts.

Sake Gelato

I passed a rather humorous sign on my hike in 'Alp No Sato,' it had a picture of a cow (a bull really which is confusing) with a (+) sign next to a bottle that is labeled sake, then an (=) sign and a silhouette of an ice cream cone. As it turned out a shop on the trail experiments with various flavors of gelato, and Sake is one of the seasonal flavors. Having already tried chocolate beer I felt it was only fair to try sake gelato, pictured on top of this cone with peach sorbet. It was actually quite delicious and had a very distinct-sharp but sweet sake flavor that really worked well contrasted against this slightly sour peach (momo) sorbet. It might have been slightly strong on its own, but paired with another handmade frozen flavor it was just right.

Affogato

Yes this is not Japanese, however Italian food is rather popular here and I have always intended to try a Affogato and finally did while at a fancy coffee shop in Suma. An affogato, literally meaning "drowned" in Italian, is a coffee-based beverage or dessert. It usually takes the form of a scoop of vanilla gelato or ice cream topped with a shot of hot espresso. If you like gelato and good rich espresso you really cannot go wrong here. I mixed mine to form a slush like consistency and the taste was very nice, how I always wanted coffee ice cream to taste; rich, slightly bitter, not too sweet, and smooth. Now that I have finally tried this simple but marvellous concoction I have to make up for last time by ordering it as much as possible.

Matsuri Yatai 屋台

Yatai, literally shop stand, are small, mobile food stalls typically selling ramen or other hot food. The stall is set up in the early evening on pedestrian walkways and removed late at night or in the early morning hours before commuters begin to fill the streets. Yatai are a popular standard at matsuri, even convenience stores and restaurants will get into the act, setting up small yatai in front of their places of business. Really what would any celebration be without food? So her are some of my favorites from yoiyama clockwise from the left: cheese chikuwa (chikuwa is a Japanese tube-like food made from fish and egg white, the cheese version has melted cheese in the center), nikumaki onigiri (a rice ball with kimchi or other filling wrapped in marinated sliced meat then baked - Oh yea!), fresh shrimp chips, tamago sembe (egg atop a rice cracker with sauce and other crunchy cracker bits), green tea beer, yakiniku (grilled meat), and finally Hiroshima okonomiyaki (like a savory pancake or crepe made from flour, grated yam, dashi, and eggs topped with cabbage, meat, yakisoba, sauce, and optional items such as squid, octopus, and cheese).

Sushi 寿司

Some time ago some friends treated me to a very nice lunch at the Diamond Kyoto Society that included sushi which is and, for many years now, has been my most treasured cuisine. I appreciate its relative simplicity, texture, taste and esthetic. This meal provided me with a chance to try a new kind of sushi that was topped with tsukimono (pickled vegetables), that proved to be absolutely delicious. Years ago when I was first told that some Japanese rate the quality of sushi on the rice and or the tomago (egg) I was rather confused, I thought the fish was the primary interest of the dish. However, sushi refers to the cooked vinegared rice, that is then commonly topped with other ingredients or put into rolls - so being concerned with the quality of the rice makes sense, though in the states I feel we tend to focus more on the fish. The most traditional form of sushi is fermented fish and rice preserved with salt and this is where the term 'sushi' comes from; being an archaic grammatical form that literally means "it's sour". The contemporary version of sushi was created by Hanaya Yohei at the end of Edo period and is intended to be a finger food prepared and eaten quickly. As for the importance of tamago, it is such a basic component with so few ingredients that if the chef has mastered it, then all of his or her other dishes are sure to be good. Similarly I have heard the best test of any chefs metal can be found through their competence in the most simple dish. So I hope you get to enjoy some sushi soon and I hope that whatever is on top is your #1 favorite.

Bitter Almond Kit Kat

I have already told you more than you need to know about Japanese junk food, especially Kit Kat, however this new Bitter Almond flavor is worth mentioning. The flavor combination is not exotic, instead it stands strictly on taste not notoriety. According to the box it does have a rather odd cross-promotion with TBC, Tokyo Beauty Clinic, though I'm not sure what Kit Kat has to do with beauty. A great balance of dark bitter but semi-sweet chocolate (44% cacao) and crushed almonds that surrounds the classic Kit Kat wafers with more dark chocolate cream between the wafers.

Incidentally, many crime & punishment stories feature a person who has died unexpectedly having been the victim of cyanide poisoning. The first, best and only symptom of cyanide poisoning in television is that it leaves the smell of bitter almonds on the victim. One interesting thing about this trope is that it is self-reinforcing; the trope itself has raised awareness such that it is increasingly likely that even a layperson would recognize the significance of the smell, but does anyone know what it actually smells like? Well it smells like Bitter Almond Kit Kat . . . tasty and informative.

Kawara Senbei 煎餅

The folks that were kind enough to provide entrance into the Royal Grand Hall of Buddhism also gifted Kawara Senbei in the likeness of the famous onigawara from the Main Hall building. Kawara are roofing tiles made of fired clay and are a type of roof ornamentation found in Japanese architecture. Onigawara are most often found on Buddhist temples, generally manufactured on a style similar to that of kawara but are statue-like depicting Japanese ogre (oni) or a fearsome beast much like a gargoyle. Kawara-senbei, roof tile cookie, are a traditional sweet that has its origins in the Kansai area. This was my first kawara senbei and the flavor was mellow - sweet but not overly so and they have a very pleasing almost smoky flavor. The texture is nice and crispy making for a very delicious treat!

Kamo Festival 賀茂祭 Treat

The Aoi Matsuri or "Hollyhock Festival," is one of the three main annual festivals held in Kyōto. This festival is also known as the Kamo festival, and is held at both the Kamigamo and Shimogamo Shrine. Held in mid-May at a time when the rice grain is just beginning to ripen, the Kamo deity is honored to insure a bountiful harvest. There are two parts to Aoi Matsuri, the procession and the shrine rites: a procession lead by an Imperial Messenger followed by oxcarts, cows, horses, and hundreds of people all dressed in traditional Heian period costumes decorated with aoi leaves (these leaves are believed to protect against natural disasters). When the procession arrives at both shrines rituals, prayers and praise are offered to deities, including Kamo, requesting their continued favor. Pictured is a traditional sweet of kanten (agar) and sweet azuki beans enjoyed during the festival purchased at the Housendo tea and sweets shop - the garden of this shop is pictured below.

Daichu Kitchen-Resturant Revisited

A place so nice I just had to visit it twice; I had the pleasure of experiencing another kaiseki dinner at Daichu restaurant and catering establishment. The centerpiece of this meal was multiple preparations of hamo or pike conger, a long ell looking fish - but the taste is quite different from eel, much more sophisticated and complex taste that is not at all greasy. Meal started with a savory egg and mushroom custard, then moved onto hamo-zushi, saba sashimi, tempura and fresh soramame complete with a fish carved from sweet potato. Next was hamo grilled and boiled and a exquisite broiled eggplant with miso, hamo with egg and gobo, flavored rice, tsukemono and finished with a desert of kanten and kurozato (Okinawan black sugar) syrup. Daichu is located next to Kyōto university on a small quiet street in Yoshidatachibanacho. Please visit the Picasa web album for more images of dinner and the hamo.

White Taiyaki (白い鯛焼き)

Taiyaki, fish-shaped pancake made of flour and traditionally filled with sweet bean paste, gained in popularity with the 1976 children's song "Oyoge! Taiyaki-kun" (Swim! Taiyaki). Nowadays they are popular at festivals, on the street and even at train stations with filling variations ranging from custard cream to cheese & sausage. Conventional taiyaki is made by pouring waffle batter into a fish-shaped mold for each side and browning the outer part as it cooks. This newer version remains white even though it is grilled the same way. The secret of the color lies in a new batter ingredient: tapioca flour, the same used to make pearl tapioca, the small whitish-transparent starch balls typically served with coconut milk as dessert. White taiyaki is chewy and differs from conventional taiyaki it taste and texture - and in many ways resembles warm mochi.

Nagata International Festival

Nagata, the area I currently call home, had another festival under the shadow of the Tetsujin 28-go monument this last weekend with lots of international food, entertainment and games. Nagata is somewhat industrial and is home to many working class families and foreigners, which helped make this local international festival energetic, diverse and interesting. Some highlights: Baby Castella ベビーカステラ, a popular Japanese sponge cake brought by Portuguese merchants in the 16th century made of sugar, flour, eggs, and starch syrup, very common at festivals and as a street food. Plastic masks of all the popular characters the kids are into these days - Doraemonドラえもん a manga and anime that first appeared in 1969 is the one in focus, the series is about a robotic cat who travels back in time from the 22nd century to aid schoolboy Nobita Nobi. Finally Goldfish scooping, kingyo sukui, is a Japanese traditional game in which a player scoops goldfish with a special scooper. Japanese summer festivals or ennichi commonly have this stall where children and adults enjoy the game. The game is played for pleasure but if you want to truly test your skills there is also a National Competition of Goldfish Scooping in Japan.

No Such Thing As A Free Lunch

Harimaya Honten is a long-established Japanese snack producer who operates these free cafes named Harimaya Station. These free cafe are an evolution of the company’s mail order business, which strengthen the brand by offering their traditional Japanese rice crackers (okaki and senbei) to to a wide range of people. Anyone can walk-in choose a plate with different kinds of crackers and grab a coffee, tea, or juice for exactly 0.00円. The cafe does have posted guidelines as to how much each customer is asked to consume, however some patrons don't choose to follow them. longside the free products, Harimaya Stations provide information about environmental issues. Presumably the cafes also serve as an outlet for the companies environmental stance which offers a long-term vision for Japan. True to this stance, most of the plastics and cups in the store are reusable and separation of materials for recycling is carefully marked and supported by the staff. The crackers are truly tasty, I guess you can get something for nothing.

Daido Seimei Kobe Bldg. 1F

1-2-7 Sakaemachi-dori, Chuo-ku, Kobe

Tel: 078-392-1030

Tsukemen つけ麺

One of my recent food infatuations is tsukemen which is similar to ramen but the noodles are served separate from the soup. Tsukemen literally means dipping noodles so as you eat, the noodles are dipped into the soup broth with each bite. Tsukemen often has a thicker noodle then its ramen cousin, however some restaurants let you choose the size and amount of the noodles. The noodles are served either cold or hot, while the soup is always hot and is a meat or fish-based broth, often flavored with soy sauce or miso and uses toppings such as sliced pork, dried seaweed, kamaboko, leeks and bamboo-shoots. Almost every locality in Japan has its own variation of tsukemen and ramen, from the tonkotsu (pork bone broth) ramen of Kyūshū to the miso ramen of Hokkaidō. As tsukemen broth is used for dipping, it is actually much thicker and flavorful then ramen. After eating the noodles some extra broth can be added to dilute the sauce which is then consumed like soup. Japanese consume tsukemen, and ramen, with almost alarming speed and the best ramen shops have a chorus of "ZuZoZ0Z0" as the enthusiastic patrons suck the noodles from their chopsticks. Oh, as a word of warning the dipping sauce often goes flying everywhere - at least when I eat it. When you are done drinking the soup, exhale and it should sound like "PUHAaaaa." Tasty!